Approaches
THE FINAL stop on the Belgian itinerary is Belgium’s second city and major port. Antwerp is a long way up the Westerschelde and looks rather off the beaten track, but it’s well worth the effort to visit this historic city.

The key to getting there without tears is to catch the first of the flood tide at the mouth of the Westerschelde. Aim to be there just before low water at Vlissingen. With HW at Antwerp up to an hour and a half later than Vlissingen you should have at least seven hours of favourable tide to negotiate the 38 miles or so up the estuary while arriving in time for HW and access to the marina. If you try and stem the tide you won’t make a lot of progress as the receding waters can run fast and furious.

Lots of commercial traffic makes the passage up to Antwerp so keep a good lookout for the shipping. On the other hand it’s probably best not to stray too far from the marked channel as there are many shallow areas lying in wait for the unwary. Parts of the passage are attractively rural, particularly around Hansweert but as you get nearer to Antwerp there are plenty of reminders that this is one of Belgium’s major centres of heavy industry. Indeed for fanciers of industrial architecture the gigantic assembly of stainless steel pipework that makes up the petrochemical works is a stunning sight particularly at dusk, a kind of over-the-top space age son et lumière.

As you round the final right-hand bend and see the medieval towers and attractive waterfront buildings of Antwerp ahead of you to port, you’ll see a waiting pontoon on your starboard side. Here you can moor up to wait for the lock into the Jachthaven Linkeroever which is open HW ± 1hr (VHF Ch 9, T 032 19 08 95).

The most convenient marina for visitors is on the opposite side of the river to the centre of town in a pleasant tree-lined basin with all the usual facilities including fuel. As not too many visitors make their way up to Antwerp, at least from Britain, there is a warm welcome and a feeling of being slightly cosseted. Although the best restaurants are probably on the other side of the river in the centre of town, there a number of decent places on the left bank within 5 minutes walk of the marina. Buying your own food is another matter as shops are limited and none too close. They do however sell anti-mosquito spray which in this fresh water environment can be useful.

The Town
To see anything of Antwerp you need to stay at least two nights. Access to the town proper is through a pedestrian tunnel 10-15 minutes walk upstream, which is also used by groups of crazed cyclists who hurtle by at alarming speed. When you emerge at the other end turn left up the attractive Hoogstraat to reach the main square (Grote Markt) with its impressive town hall and gabled guild-houses. The gothic cathedral with its seven-aisled nave is close by.

This is the home town of Pieter Paul Rubens whose house is open to the public and whose paintings adorn the cathedral, Sint Pauluskerk and several other churches and museums in the city. The Fine Art Museum with the biggest collection of paintings is a little way from the centre and is best reached by tram #8. There’s also an interesting maritime museum on the waterfront. But when you’ve done as much as you want of the culture there’s just as much pleasure to be had in simply wandering through the old streets and lively squares and enjoying the café life.

When the time comes to leave you will necessarily depart the marina around HW giving you several hours of favourable ebbing tide down river. Don’t be tempted to try and access the Dutch waterways directly from the canal system in Antwerp. If you want to go north into Holland you have to retrace your tracks down the Scheldt as far as Hansweert and then take the Kanaal door z. Buiveland.

© 2008 Yachtpilot.