To a yachtsman, Boulogne has the great advantage over Calais that its marina is accessible at all states of the tide. Moreover in recent years a smart new clubhouse has been built so that whereas previously the toilet and shower facilities were contained in cramped portacabins whose doors were inexorably locked at 7 pm, the welcome in Boulogne is now much more civilised.

The most conspicuous landmark from the sea is the group of 4 wind turbines about a mile south of the entrance to the harbour. Having identified these, head for the end of the Digue Carnot with its small white lighthouse which you will leave to starboard as you enter the large outer harbour. Do not be tempted, if coming from the north, to cut any corners and enter the harbour to the left of the apparently isolated square structure. Much of the Digue Nord is submerged for most of the time presenting a serious hazard for the unwary.

Once inside, the deep water channel, unmarked, swings round to the right for 2 or 3 cables before heading in to the inner harbour on a bearing of 122º. (So on leaving remember to head to the left of the entrance until you get close to the Digue, particularly around LW.) Inside the inner harbour (heed traffic signals) fishing boats use the Jetée Nord-Est on the left, ferries tie up on the right and the marina is at the far end. More than half the berths in the tidal harbour are reserved for visitors, so there is usually plenty of space. Do not on any account venture beyond the marina towards the bridge, where rocks await. Larger vessels can use the Bassin Napoleon accessible through a lock from about 3 hrs before HW to 4 hrs after.

Boulogne isn’t the prettiest of towns, with industrial relics prominent to the south and some unfortunate development on the cliff-top, but it has pleasant sands, a famous century-old cheese shop (Olivier’s in rue Thiers) and up on the hill an attractive old walled town. It also has the closest French Michelin starred restaurant to England in La Matelote at 80 bd Ste Beuve, T 03 21 30 17 97, booking essential. (“Matelote” sadly does not mean a girl sailor but is a type of wine-based casserole.) Restaurant de la Plage (124 bd Ste Beuve, T 03 21 99 90 90) is also good, or for something cheaper and simpler try the Bar Hamiot on the quay just opposite the marina (1 r. Faidherbe, T 03 21 31 44 20).

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