Say “Calais” to a Brit and 95 per cent will say “ferry”. But there’s more to Calais than the ferry port, and for yachtsmen it’s well worth a visit. Admittedly the rebuilding around the port area is stark, but there are some decent food shops and cafés, while if you take the trouble to walk on down the main street inland much of the attractive old town survives. Add a magnificent sandy beach to the west and good restaurants, and there are plenty of reasons for stopping by.

For yachtsmen the guiding factor will be the opening times of the lock into the Port de Plaisance. These are currently HW-2, HW-1, HW, HW+1, HW+2, HW+3 (details on port website). An orange light shows for 15 minutes before opening. Outside those times you are condemned to wait on a mooring in the often bumpy Arrière Port outside the lock or possess yourself in patience on the inside waiting to get out. Occasionally that can be a longer wait than you bargained for. Once, having timed our entry to perfection, we were still congratulating ourselves when we learnt that the lock would not be opening again for another 48 hours because the Tour de France would be running across the bridge over the sill...

Entry from the west is straightforward so long as you keep out of the way of the ferries which approach from this side. From the east or the north you have to cross the shoal area of the Ridens de la Rade. For most yachts this will be safe to do in the top half of the tide to the west of the CA10 buoy opposite the entrance to the harbour. If in any doubt, or if the seas are at all rough, approach from further west round the CA8 buoy. Once at the entrance obey the traffic signals, and then take the right hand fork into the Arrière Port and right again to the waiting area outside the lock.

Inside the Bassin de l’Ouest which contains the Port de Plaisance visitors may tie up to the pontoons to starboard, rafting out if necessary. Well maintained shower and toilet facilities are close by on the quay above, while those in immediate need of a coffee or a drink need look no further than the lively clubhouse bar above the capitainerie.

For serious eating, options include bistro-style Histoire Ancienne down the main street (20 rue Royale, T 03 21 34 11 20), Au Cote d’Argent with the benefit of beach and ferry views (1 digue G-Berthe, T 03 21 34 68 07) and Le Channel just opposite the yacht harbour (3 bd de la Résistance, T 03 21 34 42 30).

© 2008 Yachtpilot