Approaches
Approaching the Medway from the East is reasonably straightforward, but there are a number of cautionary points to bear in mind. If you are coming either from Ramsgate or across the Channel you will probably be making for the conspicuous Longnose buoy just north of North Foreland. On no account go inshore of the north cardinal buoy close by, off Foreness Point, which marks the end of a sewer outfall that is dangerous to yachts at low water.

From Longnose you can head almost due west, keeping a succession of buoys marking the offshore sands (S.E. Margate, S. Margate) on your starboard side. Having threaded your way between the prominent East Last buoy and the much less prominent Hook Spit, shape a course for the Spile buoy which at that distance is not visible. Given the inconvenient patches of sand close to the Spile and the generally shallow nature of the area, there is something to be said, especially at night, for setting a waypoint and instructing the autopilot to take you there.

From the Spile you can continue on the same course to the buoyed channel leading into the Medway. This will take you some way to the right of the prominent chimney of Grain power station which marks the entrance to the river and is visible from many miles away. The diversion is necessary to avoid the shallows to the east of Sheerness. When you get to the buoyed channel, on no account enter the prohibited area on the far side marked by large yellow buoys. This marks the grave of a WWII ammunition ship, which should your keel touch off the unexploded ammo might seriously damage the paintwork.

From the north things are simpler, with the yellow Sea Reach No.1 buoy the obvious staging point. Just beware of the shipping lanes in and out of the Thames (and the Medway). And try to allow for the strong tidal flows in and out of the estuary.

The entry to the Medway is not prepossessing. Indeed industry has left a heavy mark on much of the navigable reaches of the river. But for those who are not put off by a working environment, the charming stretches in between, good facilities and a large area of sheltered water where you can have an enjoyable day’s sailing in the roughest of weather make it well worth a visit.

Moorings and anchorages
The first stopping off option is Queenborough (see Swale) where you can pick up a mooring for a modest fee. Alternatively a little further up the river on the same side is Stangate Creek. Identify the east cardinal buoy on your port side marking Stangate Spit, which at night can be quite difficult to pick out with the glare of the container port opposite, and then steer due south. Notwithstanding the container port, there are some charming areas of the creek which is surrounded by marshland, and you can anchor here overnight in perfect shelter and safety for nowt. Bring your own food.

An alternative anchorage is Half Acre Creek further on up the river. From the entrance to Stangate Creek turn the corner into Kethole Reach, taking care to avoid the large mooring buoys and any ships which may be attached to them. Then when you are almost at No. 16 port hand buoy (the Bishop) of the buoyed channel, strike off to the left on a bearing of about 210º. It’s not quite as sheltered as Stangate and the edges of the channel have to be determined mainly by the depth sounder as it is surrounded by shallow water rather than, as in Stangate, by marshland. On a fine day, though, the far end of the creek makes a pleasant anchorage against the wooded background of Motney Hill.

Further on still up the river you come to Kingsnorth Power Station and opposite it one of the forts built in Napoleonic times as part of Britain’s naval defences. Unless you are a local with shallow draft, do not be tempted to sail straight on but follow the shipping channel round to the left to circle Hoo Island to the south.

Having rounded Hoo and travelling again north-westerly you enter one of the prettiest stretches of the river with moorings on both sides. Most of these belong to the Medway Yacht Club, and with permission you may be able to overnight there if you are a club member elsewhere (though you may face a long row against the tide if you want to use the pontoon to go ashore). The MYC has an attractive clubhouse with eating facilities, while down the road at Upnor there is the admirable Ship pub (T 01634 290553, book if you want a meal).

Marinas
Alternatively there are several marinas. First up is Gillingham, unmissable on the south side opposite Hoo Island. If you’re within an hour or so of HW you can opt for the tidal basin west of the front wall of the marina where you can sink comfortably into the mud when the tide goes out. Alternatively at HW±4 1/2 hours you can enter the locked basin and stay afloat. Gillingham isn’t quite as smart as it used to be but it’s pleasantly tree-lined and has an attractive café-bar. Oh, and a helicopter pad.

Almost opposite is Hoo marina. The entrance to the channel is marked by a west cardinal buoy half a mile further on from Gillingham. In our experience, for craft with any significant draft you’re looking at HW±1 hour, so access is limited (though local opinion is that for vessels drawing up to 1.5m HW±2 1/2 is possible). However the place does have an undeniable charm for the east coaster who likes his boating facilities to look boaty rather than like the foyer of a luxury hotel. There is a wonderful greasy spoon caff (daytime only) and a good yacht repair company.

New kid on the block is Chatham Maritime. Unlike the others, this offers access at almost any stage of the tide through a lock on Upnor Reach almost opposite Upnor Castle. Call the lock keeper on Ch 80 when you are opposite the Royal Engineers. Situated in the old naval docks, the marina is attractively positioned with plenty of space between the pontoons and admirably modern facilities (though no chandlers or café on site). There is shopping and eating within walking distance, though so far more of the shopping mall variety than the high quality and good value kind. The Historic Dockyard tourist attraction is close by.

For power boats and yachts which can lower their masts there is a further option upstream of Rochester bridge at Medway Bridge Marina, which nestles cosily beneath the M2 motorway. In the same area is the Medway Motor Yacht Club at Port Medway Marina.

© 2008 Yachtpilot