BEGINNING a cruise round the Dutch inland waterways, or returning south after completing one, you have a three-fold choice of either the Roompot, the Westerschelde via the Kanaal door Zuid Beveland (quick but fairly dull) or negotiating the Veerse Meer and the Kanaal door Walcheren.
The third option is much the most interesting if you have the time. Taking the southerly course, from the Oosterschelde find the Mosselplaat east cardinal buoy, about a mile north-west of the Goes canal, and then take the buoyed channel through the Zandkreek to the lock. From here you enter the tideless Veerse Meer which is one of the most attractive of Holland’s inland waterways, with wooded banks, several islands and pontoons to tie up away from the crowds (as in the Grevelingenmeer you need to buy tickets at one of the marinas to use the pontoons). If you venture outside the buoyed channel, be aware that it is quite shallow in many places, and sometimes weedy; after one such excursion we found it necessary to clean the filter on the raw water cooling circuit. It is also relatively narrow compared with other inland waters which can make sailing more challenging.
Having rounded the bend on the southern loop of the Veerse Meer, the attractive former seaport of Veere is a couple of miles further on on the western side of the Meer. Tie up in the Stadshaven. Alternatively, enter the canal through the lock on the south-eastern side of Veere—you will see a large church on the starboard side of the entrance channel—and proceed on Middelburg. Once through the lock, the canal is wide and there are no bridges between the lock and the town three miles further on.
When you get to Middelburg take the wide channel leading off the canal to the right and then tie up two or three hundred metres further in to one of the pontoons either side of the pretty opening bridge leading to the tree-lined inner harbour on your left. The harbourmaster’s office is on the right-hand side of the opening bridge and if he is in evidence he will probably direct you through the bridge to a berth in the inner harbour. Alternatively, just stay on the waiting pontoon and pay your dues in the morning. Showers and toilets are available in the club at the south end of the opening bridge. Fuel is obtainable during normal hours from the chandlery at the junction with the canal, on the west side.
Middelburg is the capital of Zeeland and an historic town with an attractive blend of waterways, tree-lined streets and gabled buildings making it well worth a visit. Best among a wide choice of restaurants is said to be De Gespleten Arent (Vlasmarkt 25, T 01 18 63 61 22) Wherever you go, it pays to book in advance.
© 2008 Yachtpilot.
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