Having passed the Seven Sisters, those magnificent lumps of chalk cliff which echo Beachy Head in a kind of diminuendo as you proceed westward along the Sussex coast, Newhaven is identifiable by the long curving breakwater sheltering the estuary of the River Ouse from the prevailing south-westerlies and by the two radio masts on the hills to the west. As a ferry port the entrance is well dredged, and by entering more or less due north between the end of the breakwater with its small white lighthouse and the small eastern pier you will be sure of deep water.

Although Newhaven isn’t exactly busy, traffic signals on the western breakwater must, of course, be obeyed. If red, do not enter. Two greens over a white means small craft can proceed in either direction. If green, white, green, you must contact port control to obtain permission on VHF ch.12. On the way out, do not exit the marina if there are red lights showing at the north end.

Once inside the harbour, the marina is on your left in the small cove known as Sleepers Hole opposite where the ferries tie up. Contact the marina office on Ch.M or tie up at the visitor berths on the outside of the southern-most pontoon and report, if in office hours. Most yachts will have adequate depth on the visitors' pontoon, but inside the marina itself you may find yourself sinking gently into soft mud for an hour or two either side of MLWS.

As of 2009-10 the redevelopment appears to have stalled. One end of the marina is new blocks of apartments with the usual landscaping and promenade areas imitating the flasher yachteries of the Mediterranean. The other is boarded up restaurants, derelict workshops waiting for demolition and facilities 30 years out of date (though some modest improvements are being made).

The result is curiously appealing, a kind of vision of the future hovering over the very down to earth reality of Newhaven in the here and now featuring a lot of stained concrete and a metal recycling facility. It also means that fees are a little lower than in neighbouring Brighton or Eastbourne.

Eventually, maybe things will change. Meanwhile, the place has a friendly and unpretentious feel with a good chandler and new mini-market on site, and supermarket about 12 minutes walk. Fish lovers can trade directly with the boats further along the quay. To eat out, the best bet is the Italian restaurant Padella D’oro (12 Bridge Street, T 01273 516334, book ahead at weekends), ten minutes walk up river. To obtain diesel, contact the marina office who will despatch personnel to dispense from the pump on the quayside just north of the lifeboat station (though it's cheaper at nearby Brighton).

© 2009 Yachtpilot