The main reason for visiting the ferry port of Ouistreham, in most cases, will be as a staging post for the canal on to Caen, though it has a pleasant quiet marina surrounded by whispering poplar trees and extensive chandlery and marine facilities. In emergency it also provides some shelter at all states of the tide, a rare characteristic on this coast, though be aware that if the lock is closed and you are confined to the waiting pontoon in the outer harbour this is a far from comfortable berth, especially if winds are strong and from the north.

The best distinguishing mark from the sea is the lighthouse some way to the west of a prominent square building. If coming from the east approach the entry channel from outside the Merville north cardinal buoy, and if arriving from the west keep outside the Plateau du Calvados while avoiding the wrecks marked by the Luc and Lion east cardinals.

There are two locks into the Caen Canal, the only one available to pleasure craft being the easterly one. This opens several times during the top half of each tide, and opening times are displayed at Ouistreham marina and on the port website. You are advised to be at least quarter of an hour early. These times show when the landward gates will open for traffic heading out of the canal for the sea. After these vessels have left the lock, i.e. about 15-30 minutes later, inward bound traffic can enter, after which the lock will be closed to both outward and inward traffic until the next appointed opening time.

Once through the lock the entrance to the marina is to port, with the visitors pontoon straight ahead. In season you may have to raft up. Cross the locks for various restaurants and other amenities. As of 2010 the nearest boulangerie was about 15 minutes walk from the marina: follow the signs to Centre Ville, aiming at the Norman church.

For onward travel to Caen consult the timetable in the marina. There are three opening bridges between Ouistreham and Caen and to limit the disruption to road traffic these are opened only at certain times of the day, three times daily in summer and twice in winter. As of 2010 the departure times at the first bridge were from Ouistreham 1010, 1330 and 1630 and from Caen 0845, 1200 and 1500 (middle convoy omitted October-March).

Travelling “upstream” towards Caen, Pegasus Bridge which is the first of the three is about half an hour from Ouistreham marina, so leave plenty of time to get there. Those with a historical turn of mind may want to allow longer in order to visit the museum recording details of the capture of the bridge in the early hours of D-Day in 1944 by the British 6th Airborne Division.

Once through the bridge proceed to the next one, pursued by a man in a car with keys to open it. The final one, Pont de la Fonderie, is at the entrance to the marina in Caen. Visitors use “E” pontoon. Altogether the trip up the canal, including waiting times, will take about 2 hours.

Caen suffered severe damage during the Battle of Normandy but there are still some characteristic old streets and superb medieval churches in what was once known as the Norman Athens. Top class restaurants abound, some of them surprisingly inexpensive, try for instance Le Bouchon du Vaugueux close to the west end of the marina (12 r. Graindorge, T 02 31 44 26 26).

© 2010 Yachtpilot