RYE is one of the prettiest ports in the south east of England and also one of the least visited. The reason for its relative lack of appeal is not difficult to understand. Access is restricted to the upper part of the tide and even then there isn’t too much water, while when you reach the town which is two miles from the coast there is no marina and you have to take the ground when the tide disappears. Add to this the fact that Rye requires something of a detour off the main east-west track for coastal yachtsmen, who tend to sail between Dungeness and Beachy Head without wanting to divert into Rye Bay, and its relative obscurity becomes easy to comprehend.

Nevertheless for sailors with any spirit of adventure the place is irresistable. So long as you plan your visit carefully in relation to the tide, and depths of less than a metre under the keel don’t freak you out, a visit is perfectly possible and provides a satisfying sense of achievement. Fin keel boats can safely lean against the quay as advised by the harbour master. Be aware, however, that as of 2009 further shoaling was reported and yachts drawing 1.5m or more will find access to Strand Quay in the centre of town difficult or impossible at neaps.

The starting point for entry to Rye is the red and white striped Rye Fairway buoy just under 2 miles off the harbour entrance. There are no obstacles in the vicinity, the bottom shelving gently towards the shore, but there is an MOD firing range immediately west of Dungeness which must be avoided when in operation. If firing is in progress there will be red flags or red lights onshore and patrol boats to advise mariners (VHF ch 73 or 13), in which case yachts have to stay south of Stephenson Shoal before running in to Rye Fairway.

Yachts with conventional keels visiting Rye for the first time should try to arrive at the Fairway buoy by about HW-2 so as to allow plenty of time to negotiate the river on a rising tide. From the buoy it’s a bearing of 329º to the harbour entrance, the western side of which is marked by a distinctive red tripod and the eastern side, 240m further in, by a green painted square structure.

The outer channel runs straight for about three quarters of a mile whereupon you will arrive at the outlying village of Rye Harbour where the Harbourmaster’s building is on your right. Just before you get there, there are traffic signals which are operational during commercial ship movements and must be observed. Subject to these, round up into the tide and tie up to pay your dues at the HM’s office. In return he will give you valuable up to date advice on navigating the remaining couple of miles to Rye. You can, if you want, stay moored up against the piling at Rye Harbour overnight but there’s not a lot of point given the prospect of going on to the town, and you dry out just the same.

Proceed on up the River Rother keeping to the middle of the channel to find the best water. About a mile and a half further on you will find the narrow Rock Channel opening to your left marked by red and green buoys and a noticeboard, into which you turn; the Rother is crossed by a low bridge a little further up and offers sanctuary only for fishing vessels. At the end of the Rock Channel the waterway forks again, the River Brede to your left and the River Tillingham to your right. Take the right hand channel making sure you keep as far over to the left as the moored vessels will allow, as the water is seriously shoal on the inside of the bend.

Strand Quay where visitors moor on the starboard bank is a short distance further on, marked by a sign. Tie up to the mooring rings where there is a convenient ladder, then if your boat is fin keel fix a strop round the upper part of the mast from the top of one of the posts so that when the tide recedes the boat will lie more or less vertically with the keel held by the soft mud. If you have a suitable board you may find it useful to hang this outside your fenders to keep the boat away from the piles which are about 2 metres apart, but make sure it does not get caught as the tide rises again. Having done this slacken off your warps fore and aft so they hang down as far as the mud.

There is water and electricity on the quayside, but beware of leaving an electricity cable unattended given the rise and fall in the tide. Showers and toilets just across the road—beautifully kept but inadequate for more than one or two boats at a time.

Once secure, give yourself up to a wander round the ancient streets of the town. Lamb House where Henry James wrote his three finest novels is open to the public, and there is a museum including the Ypres Tower built in 1249 as part of the town’s fortifications against the French. There are plenty of pubs and restaurants of which three of the more ambitious are Landgate Bistro (5-6 Landgate, T 01797 222829), Webbes at the Fish Café (17 Tower St, T 01797 222226), and the Flushing Inn (4 Market St, T 01797 223292).

Time your departure before HW and keep towards the northerly bank as you leave Strand Quay for the Rock Channel.

© 2009 Yachtpilot