St Malo lies behind a protective archipelago of offshore rocks which the visitor must negotiate before gaining access to the well sheltered and attractive port. There are several recognised channels through the maze, but for first timers it will probably be wise to use the main channel which leads in from the north-west, the Chenal de la Petite Porte.

Identify the green tower of Les Courtis and then, keeping a little to the east of it, head in on about 129º along the buoyed channel, leaving the prominent red-topped tower of Le Grand Jardin about a cable to port. Keep a look out for ferries and other commercial vessels and once past the end of the breakwater, tipped by a white tower with red top, either steer 070º for the lock into the Bassin Vauban or continue past the pier where the ferries tie up for the entrance to the Port des Bas-Sablons which is concealed behind it.

The marina at the northern end of the Bassin Vauban has the advantage of being right outside the walls of the old town, which contains most of the best restaurants and a maze of picturesque alleyways, albeit mostly rebuilt since WWII. The main disadvantage is that access is constrained by the lock (Ecluse du Naye) which is available from HW-2 1/2 to HW+2. For more precise opening times see local port website. Given the right tidal conditions, just turn up at the lock and enter according to the traffic lights, bearing in mind that this facility is used by large commercial vessels. There are a few waiting buoys outside the lock.

The tidal window for Bas-Sablons is wider at about HW±4, the sill drying 2m. A digital gauge indicates the depth over the sill and if you arrive while it is insufficient there are a couple of waiting buoys by the breakwater. Alternatively just hang around, taking care not to get too close to the wooded shore where the depths shoal rapidly. Inside there is a large and attractive marina where you will be ushered to a suitable berth by a man in a dinghy.

Bas-Sablons is in the adjacent town to St Malo of St Servan. This is an attractive small town in its own right with another pretty bay a few minutes walk to the south across the peninsula. For the centre, walk halfway round the south-east side of the bay and at the Café de la Plage turn up the rue du Amiral Magon (“tué à Trafalgar”). There is also a nearer boulangerie in the rue des Bas Sablons parallel to the beach.

Alternatively old St Malo, “Intra Muros”, with its ancient ramparts and stunning views of the rocky islands offshore, is a pleasant walk of about 25 minutes round the Anse de Bas-Sablons and along the Bassin Vauban.

On the other side of the river Rance, Dinard is an up-market Edwardian resort with an attractive beach, though it has few facilities for yachts. The possibility of cruising further upstream is an attractive proposition subject to negotiating the lock through the tidal barrage (Ecluse de la Rance), for opening times of which click the link (lien) at the local government website.

© 2008 Yachtpilot