From the East
The Swale is the name of the modest waterway that encircles the Isle of Sheppey on its southern side between the island and mainland Kent. At its western end it is largely industrial and marshy, though not without a certain charm for those with a taste for maritime history. At its eastern end it is rural and attractive, and in decent weather a pleasant mooring or anchorage on a coast otherwise devoid of such amenities.

From the Channel, and Margate Road, a course due west from the E. Last buoy will take you neatly between the starboard hand Columbine and its port hand partner, but you will need to have at least half tide to feel comfortable with the depths. Alternatively head off up the Horse Channel in the direction of the Spile buoy (see Medway) and then approach the Columbine from the north-east. (Visitors new to the East Coast need to bear in mind that much of the navigable water in these parts is not much more than a puddle in a ditch.)

Having located the Columbine, follow the line of starboard hand buoys to the south-west towards the entrance to the Swale. As you get close to the island you will probably see seals reclining on the sands. When you reach the vicinity of the north cardinal buoy marking Faversham Spit the waterway swings round to the north-west and you come shortly to the moorings at Harty Ferry. If there are no suitable moorings available (some are in quite shallow water) it is feasible to anchor, given reasonable weather.

Having admired the view, listened to the birds and watched the sun go down as you enjoy some liquid refreshment, it’s time to get the dinghy out and head off to the pub, unless you are eating on board. The Ferry House which is clearly in view on the island is the easiest option. Land on the old causeway (the ferry itself is long gone) and be prepared to get muddy.

If the tides serve, it’s well worth making the longer dinghy trip up Faversham Creek as far as the Shipwrights Arms, which is about as remote a place as you can find so close to London. It has its own generator and water supply and serves good ales and traditional food in appealing surroundings. Ideally you will want to set off from your yacht about 2 hours before HW to allow sufficient time for a relaxed meal before setting out for the return journey in good time before the water disappears. Take muddy boots.

From the West
Coming through the Swale from the other end can be a good option on the top half of the flood tide if you are heading east from the Medway. The route through the Swale avoids fighting the tidal stream out in the Thames Estuary and instead takes advantage of the favourable flow into the Swale.

The only settlement of any size is Queenborough close to the western end. Pass the ships moored alongside at Sheerness and enter the Swale leaving the east cardinal buoy of Queenboro’ Spit to starboard. Be aware that the channel shallows rapidly on either side and head on for just less than a mile until you come to some mooring buoys to port just seaward of the landing pontoon. There are also moorings on the other side of the river. Here you can spend the night in perfect shelter for a modest fee close to the Medway entrance and be on your way first thing in the morning, if that is your preference.

Queenborough itself is an old riverside town which has probably seen better days, but it has a pretty High Street and there are one or two pubs where you can eat traditional food. To leave the harbour, use the pontoon run by the local yacht club (T 01795 663995)— to return to your boat you will need a token from the clubhouse or from one of the local pubs.

Sailing the length of the Swale presents two main obstacles. The first is the lifting bridge at Kingsferry. This usually opens on the hour, but always radio on Channel 10 to let the bridge keeper know you are waiting.

The second obstacle is the 3 miles or so of shallow water after you turn the corner on Elmley Reach near the paper mill. Note that the direction of buoyage in the Swale changes at this point. For comfort you will need to cover this stretch within an hour or so of HW, though locals in relatively shallow draft craft report that HW-3 on a rising tide is perfectly possible. The compensation is that at this point you leave industry behind and enter the more attractive reaches of the waterway, with a bird sanctuary on your left and various islands and creeks on your right.

On the subject of the creeks, Milton is threatened with a low bridge. Conyer is beguiling but in our experience only really feasible for boats with lifting keels or shallow draft. Faversham is also possible for shallow draft craft, and an attractive town when you get there, but timing is critical and fin keel boats have to tie up against a wall. Dredging of the creek is reported to have been discontinued making it progressively less of an option.

© 2008 Yachtpilot