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Buoys and their lights

Lights and signals of other vessels

Rules of the road

VHF procedures

Distress signals

Sailing and boat handling

Buoys

Buoys and their lights

Lateral

Used mainly to mark deep water channels, e.g. on the approach to a port.

Appearance

Red cans, left to port.

Green cones, left to starboard.

In practice can be anything from shapely ironware maintained by Trinity House to small marks on poles to leaky beer barrels with a fading splash of paint. Small channels may be marked only with brushwood stuck in the mud (withies). The direction of buoyage is almost invariably correct for entering port; hence on departing you will be leaving the green to port and the red to starboard.

Lights

Red cans: Flash red as per chart

Green cones: Flash green as per chart

Cardinal

Used mainly to indicate an area of danger.

Appearance

Usually cone-shaped but can also be on poles. Each of the four cardinal buoys has a different combination of horizontal yellow and black stripes and different top marks. The 2 arrow-shape top marks point to the black stripe or stripes on the buoy.

North Cardinal: black over yellow; both arrows point upwards

East Cardinal: black-yellow-black; arrows point outwards

South Cardinal: yellow over black; both arrows point downwards

West Cardinal: yellow-black-yellow; arrows point inwards

Cardinal buoys are placed at the appropriate point of the compass around the danger area. In other words a North Cardinal is indicating that it is to the north of the danger. It is usually necessary to use only one cardinal buoy to indicate a danger. In trying to remember the pattern of the top marks it may helpful to see the North Cardinal marks as pointing “north” (ie up), the South Cardinal marks as pointing “south” (ie down), the West Cardinal marks as having a “waist” (ie pointing inwards) and the East Cardinal as being, well, the one which isn’t any of the others (marks pointing outwards).

Lights

North Cardinal: Flashes white continuously

East Cardinal: Flashes white in groups of 3

South Cardinal: Flashes white in groups of 6 followed by a long flash

West Cardinal: Flashes white in groups of 9

The number of flashes mimics the numbers on a clock face.

Isolated Danger Marks

Indicate danger with safe water all around.

Appearance

Black-red-black horizontal stripes with 2 round top marks

Lights

Flashes white in groups of 2.

Safe Water Marks

Indicate safe deep water.

Appearance

Red and white vertical stripes with 1 round top mark.

Lights

White, either Isophase, Occulting, Long Flash or Morse Code letter as indicated on the chart.

Special Marks

Can be used for any purpose, for instance swimming areas or a deep water channel for ships. There is a fine collection round the wreck of the Montgomery outside the Medway.

Appearance

All yellow, with top mark in the shape of a x.

Lights

Flashes yellow as per chart.

Lights general

Flashing (abbrev. Fl) means more dark than light, ie brief flashes of light in the prevailing dark.

Isophase (abbrev. Iso) means equal periods of light and dark.

Occulting (abbrev. Oc) means more light than dark, ie a light which briefly goes out every so often on a regular pattern.

Examples

Fl (2) 20 sec means a group of two white flashes repeated every twenty seconds. Lights are white unless otherwise indicated.

Q R means continuous quick flashing red.

Mo (A) 6s means white Morse Code letter A (flash, long flash) every 6 secconds.

Other pilotage aides

Sector Lights

Some lights show coloured sectors, for instance to indicate an entrance channel avoiding dangers. If the light shows red you have strayed too far to port, if green too far to starboard, if white you are on course. Chart gives details.

Leading Lights

Some harbour entrances are marked with leading lights. When the lights line up vertically you are on course. The lower light is always in front, so you can tell which way to steer in order to correct if they do not line up.

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Lights
Lights and signals displayed or sounded by vessels

Daytime signals (visual)

At anchor

Anchored vessels must hoist an anchor ball

Motorsailing

Sailing vessels under power should show an inverted cone

Fishing

Fishing boats hoist two vertical cones pointing inwards, or sometimes a basket. Beware trailing fishing gear.

Towing

A vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre shows ball - diamond - ball in a vertical line

Dredging

A vessel engaged in under-water work shows ball - diamond - ball plus two balls on the danger side and two diamonds on the safe side.

Lights

At anchor

A single all-round white light must be shown

Sailing

Red and green navigation lights must be shown, each extending 112.5º from the centre line of the boat, plus a white stern light extending 135º. (On boats of less than 20 metres these can be combined in a single masthead light.)

Power

Boats under power, including sailing boats under power, must show in addition a steaming light facing forward and extending over 225º. (On boats of less than 12 metres the steaming and stern lights can be combined in a single all-round white light at the masthead.)

Dinghies

Need only show a single white light, eg a torch.

Ships

In addition to red and green navigation lights, larger vessels must show two masthead lights, the one towards the bows of the vessel lower than the one nearer the stern.

Fishing

Trawlers show a green light above the masthead light. Other fishing vessels show a red light above the masthead light.

Towing

A vessel restricted in her ability to manoeuvre shows red - white - red in a vertical line

Dredging

A vessel engaged in under-water work shows red - white - red in a vertical line plus two reds on the danger side and two greens on the safe side.

Constrained by draught

A vessel constrained by her draught shows three reds below her mast light.

Sound signals

Poor visibility (eg fog)

Power driven vessels
One long blast, every 2 minutes (— )

Sailing vessels

One long blast followed by two short blasts, every 2 minutes ( — - - )
 

Manoeuvring

I am turning to port
Two blasts ( - - )

I am turning to starboard

One blast ( - )

I am slowing down, or going astern

Three blasts ( - - - )

Warning (Have you seen me?)

Five blasts ( - - - - - )

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Rules

Rules of the road

Sail

1. If two sailing boats approach each other on opposite tacks

Port gives way to Starboard.

In other words the boat with the wind coming over the port side gives way to the boat with the wind coming over the starboard side.

2. If two sailing boats approach each other on the same tack

The boat to windward gives way.

3. If there is any doubt about which tack the other vessel is on, a vessel close-hauled on the port tack must give way.

This situation can arise if one vessel is close-hauled and the other is approaching from the other direction with the wind behind it, perhaps with a spinnaker up. It can then be difficult to tell which tack the approaching vessel is on.

Power

1. If two power boats approach each other head on

Both boats turn to starboard

2. If two power boats are on courses which cross

The boat to port gives way to the boat coming from the starboard side.

In other words if another boat under power is approaching from the side (rather than dead ahead) whichever boat is to port gives way. This rule applies to boats approaching in a sector of 112.5º from the bow of the boat to aft of the beam, on either side. Generally the boat giving way will alter course to starboard.

The rules in this section also apply to sailing boats under power.

Sale and Power

When overtaking

The overtaking vessel must give way

This rule applies in the sector not covered by the rule on crossing for boats under power, ie if you are approaching from anywhere more than 22.5º abaft the beam of the vessel ahead.

General

Note that in real life the general presumption of “sail before steam” frequently doesn’t apply. For instance:

Sail must keep out of the way of

Vessels restricted in their ability to manoeuvre, or constrained by their draft

Vessels engaged in fishing

Vessels not under command (i.e. not able to manoeuvre as a result of, for instance, engine failure)

Sail must also not impede the safe passage of

Vessels using a traffic separation scheme

Vessels constrained by their draft

In any case, common sense dictates that small yachts or power boats should generally keep well clear of big ships, not least because small boats are often difficult to see from the bridge of a large vessel.

If you do find yourself on a collision course with a ship at close quarters it is usually wise to turn away from it, i.e. in the same direction as it is travelling, not towards it. This gives the ship’s master more time to react and avoids the risk of both vessels turning towards each other and increasing the risk of collision.

Finally, note the awful warning contained in the verse below:

Hark to the story of Jonathan Gray

Who died defending his right of way.

He was right, dead right, as he sailed along,

But just as dead as if he were wrong.

Full details are in the International Regulations for Prevention of Collision at Sea, available from the RYA in a special edition for yachtsmen.

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VHF

VHF Radio procedures

Main VHF Channels

Ch 16 Distress, safety and calling.

Ch 67 Small craft safety channel in UK, accessed via Ch 16.

Ch 80 Main UK marina channel.

Ch M Secondary UK marina channel, formerly known as Ch 37.

For port control channels, see charts or pilot guides.

Main inter-ship channels (i.e. not generally used for other purposes): Ch 06, 08, 72, 77.

Other inter-ship channels: Ch 10, 13, 09, 73, 67, 69, 15, 17.

When calling between vessels on Ch 16 in non-safety situations, remember that the convention is that the vessel called takes control and nominates a channel to move to.

Phonetic Alphabet

A Alfa

B Bravo

C Charlie

D Delta

E Echo

F Foxtrot

G Golf

H Hotel

I India

J Juliett

K Kilo

L Lima

M Mike

N November

O Oscar

P Papa

Q Quebec

R Romeo

S Sierra

T Tango

U Uniform

V Victor

W Whiskey

X X-ray

Y Yankee

Z Zulu

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Distress

Distress Signals and Urgency Calls

By VHF

Switch to Ch 16 at High Power. Check no-one is transmitting. Press Transmit button.

Mayday calls are used for life threatening situations.

MAYDAY MAYDAY MAYDAY

This is... [vessel name, repeat 3 times]

MAYDAY, this is... [vessel name once]

My position is... [give latitude and longitude from GPS. Or bearing and distance from a known point. Repeat position if time allows]

We are... [state nature of distress and type of help required. Vessel or person in grave danger, e.g. sinking, fire, man over board, etc]

Over.

Release the Transmit button

Pan-pan calls are used for urgent but non life threatening situations.

PAN-PAN PAN-PAN PAN-PAN

All Stations All Stations All Stations [or specific stations, such as Dover Coastguard]

This is... [vessel name, repeat 3 times]

My position is... [give latitude and longitude from GPS. Or bearing and distance from a known point. Repeat position if time allows]

We are... [state nature of urgency and type of help required. E.g. urgent medical assistance needed.]

Over.

Other recognised distress signals

Rockets

Orange smoke signals

Continuous sounding of foghorn

SOS by lamp or otherwise . . . _ _ _ . . .

Continuous raising and lowering of arms

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Handling

Some Basic Sailing and Boat Handling Reminders

Prop, rudder and windage

The prop effect, sometimes known as prop walk, arises because propellers not only provide forward or backward motion but also act as paddle wheels pulling the stern to one side. When going forward the effect is negligible because the keel counteracts it, but in reverse it can be significant, especially on modern yachts with smallish fin keels. Different props may pull the stern in a different direction so the first essential is to determine which way the stern will move. With the boat firmly tied up, run the engine in reverse. The stern will move away from the side with the most turbulence.
 

Another feature of going astern is that the rudder will have less effect than when moving forward. This is because when going ahead the prop thrusts the water against the rudder maximising its effect whereas when going astern it thrusts the water forward. Don’t forget that steering is achieved by moving the stern to left or right, so the boat will pivot on the keel area, the bow and stern swinging round accordingly.
 

The third thing to consider when manoeuvring the boat in confined areas is the wind. A modern yacht with light displacement and high freeboard is easily blown about and it is vital to check the wind strength and direction before entering or leaving a marina. Windage is usually higher on the bow than the stern so the boat will tend to turn away from the wind.
 

Of course, everything is easier with a bow thruster.

Leaving a berth

Before leaving a berth make sure the engine is on and the warps are rigged as slips. If you are berthed in a line of boats along a pontoon, in calm conditions the easiest thing to do, if not the slickest, is to slip the bow and push it out with a boat-hook before slipping the stern and motoring off.
 

If there is a stream running along the pontoon against you, you will not need to push the boat off far before it moves away of its own accord as the stream catches the keel. This is helpful, but be prepared to react fast. If the stream is running in the same direction as you are facing, it will be better to let the stern move out and reverse away from the pontoon. Either way give your crew clear directions before you start.
 

You may not need to use the boathook at all if you slip the stern and then angle the rudder in the stream in such a way as to move the stern out from the pontoon. When the boat is pointing at a suitable angle reverse out, slipping the bow.
 

If there is no stream and the wind is pinning you against the pontoon then it may be useful to use a spring to move the bow or the stern out. Rig a spring on the bow as a slip, with a fender to protect the side of the boat, and then power forward against the spring: the stern will move out and you can then reverse away. Other things being equal, it is probably better to use a bow spring and reverse out rather than a stern spring and leave forward, because windage is greatest on the bow which will therefore be pinned more firmly to the pontoon. However, if prop walk is going to pull your boat in towards the pontoon again as you reverse, it may be better to use a stern spring and move out forwards.
 

If you are reversing away from a finger berth, again consider the effect of prop walk and of the wind (if any). Often it will be much easier to turn the boat one way rather than try and turn it the other against the effect of the prop walk and/or the windage on the bow. In that case consider reversing all the way out until you can conveniently change direction rather than the more conventional reverse and then forwards.
 

If you do need to reverse against the direction dictated by the prop walk, get a little stern way on the boat and then put the engine in neutral. With the prop stationary you will find it easier to turn the boat in the direction you want.

Coming alongside

Always come alongside into the tidal stream if there is any. That way you have much more control.
 

If you are heading into a stream, secure the bow first to avoid the risk of the boat being turned sideways on by the stream. If you are reversing into a stream, secure the stern first.

If prop walk kicks your stern to starboard, then ideally moor starboard side to so that the gentle reverse thrust you use to stop the boat tucks the stern in nicely against the pontoon. If prop walk is to port then, if you have a choice, moor port side to.
 

Approach at a shallow angle unless there is a strong wind blowing off the pontoon, in which case come in at a sharper angle and moor up quickly.

Ferry gliding

If there is a stream running along the pontoon, and there is not much space between the vessels already moored up, it is sometimes possible to hold the boat in the stream outside the other vessels and angle the rudder so that the stream gradually drifts the boat sideways into the space. This is known as ferry gliding (because the ferries sometimes do it). Point the bows slightly into the space so that the stream will act against the keel and counteract the turning effect of the rudder as you use the engine to keep the boat opposite the berth. This takes a little practice and is really only practicable in fairly windless conditions.

Turning in a tight space

By using the combined effect of the rudder and prop walk it is possible to turn the boat under engine in little more than its own length. This can be useful in the confined spaces of a marina — though don’t forget that rather than turning the boat it may be simpler to reverse, especially if there is a stream running or an adverse wind.

Which way you turn the boat will depend on the direction of prop walk on your boat. If the prop pulls the stern to starboard when in reverse, make your turn to port; if prop walk is to port then turn to starboard.

With engine “ahead” start your turn, then put the engine into neutral with your rudder still over so the boat keeps swinging. Then give a burst of “astern” so that the prop continues to drag your stern round in the direction you want while limiting the turning circle (there’s no need to change the angle of the rudder). Finally give a another burst of “ahead” to complete the turn.

If there is a wind blowing it may either help or hinder your manoeuvre depending on the direction. If the wind is blowing your bows round in the direction you want to go then it will make the turn easier. If it is blowing in the other direction it will make the turn more difficult.

Picking up a mooring

Under engine, motor gently up to the buoy against the tide.

Under sail, with wind against tide use the jib to keep the boat moving slowly against the tide. If you are going too fast turn from side to side to increase the effect of the tide against the keel.

If wind and tide are in the same direction, use the main only and “fill and spill” until you reach the buoy.

Man Overboard drill

The first essential is never to have to face a MOB situation. That means always attach yourselves to the boat with a lifeline at night, or if the weather is rough. And always wear life-jackets.

If the worst should happen, it is usually best to deal with the situation under engine. As soon as someone falls in, shout “Man Overboard”. Throw the MOB gear overboard (usually a Danbuoy and life buoy) to mark his position (but don’t hit him). Then have a member of the crew keep pointing at him as you manoeuvre to pick him up.

If you are under sail, start the engine, furl or drop the jib and sheet in the main. Then use the engine to bring yourself downwind of the MOB so that you can approach him into the wind with the main flapping innocuously. It is often best to bring yourself downwind by circling round the MOB rather than away from him.

Approach very slowly as you get near him. Ideally retrieve him via the boarding ladder. If the conditions are choppy it may be easier to throw him a line with a float on it rather than bring the boat too close. Whoever is assisting the MOB must be secured to the boat with a long line, particularly if they have to enter the water.

If the MOB is unconscious or the crew is weak it may be necessary to winch him inboard by swinging the boom out over the water and using the mainsheet. Exactly how this might be done in the circumstances of your boat is something you need to work out beforehand.
 

If you have no engine, or it is not operational, then you need to manoeuvre the boat until you can approach the MOB on a close reach, i.e. at an angle of 50º-60º to the wind. The reason for this is so you can control the speed of the boat by “filling and spilling” wind in the main, and then stop close to him. Meanwhile roll up the jib or let it fly.

The approved procedure is to turn away from the MOB on a beam reach (i.e. at right angles to the wind) for about 10 boat lengths, go about, and then sail downwind on a broad reach until you can head back into the wind on a course which will enable you to control the amount of wind in the main and approach him slowly. When you head into the wind you must be able to let out the main to a point where it flaps. If it doesn’t flap, continue the broad reach until it does.

All of which takes time, takes you away from the MOB and is not the easiest thing to do in an emergency. Hence, if possible, use the engine.

Sail trim

The headsail will not set correctly unless the sheet is pulling at the right angle. As a rule of thumb, the line made by the sheet if extended forward should bisect the luff of the sail. That way tension on the leach and the foot of the sail will be equal. That means that when the boat is sailing tight-hauled the sheet lead (car) should be moved back on the track. When the wind is further aft the car should be moved forward.

“Tell-tales” are a useful guide to sail trim. All should stream smoothly on both sides of the sail. If the tell-tales on the inner surface of the sail are fluttering rather than streaming the sail needs to be tightened. If they are fluttering on the outer surface of the sail the sheet needs to be eased.

When sailing with two sails, the leaches should follow a similar curve, the main sheeted in slightly more than the headsail.

Untwisting a spinnaker

Anyone who has ever hoisted a spinnaker is likely to have found it twisting round the forestay at some point. If this happens, try gybing the main, i.e. pushing it across to the other side of the boat. This reverses the flow of air over the spinnaker and may untwist the sail.

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